This is a kit that very nearly hits it out of the park, but a few eccentricities and shortfalls keep it from being a really excellent product in my view.
Most fantasy wargamers who exist in the 28mm ecosystem that has become the norm for the past few decades won't be looking at 1/72 scale kits, which roughly equate to 20mm. The difference between 20 and 28mm doesn't sound like much, but in an equivalently proportioned 3d figure, the difference in mass is about 2.5x, and the comparison on the tabletop is glaringly 'wrong'. If, as I do, you have lots of old 25mm stuff from distant ages, and you compare with a 1/72 kit that's more generously proportioned, you may be able to intermix the two, but not often.
However, when it comes to goblins, and fantasy races that are distinguished from humans largely by their relative size, we can be far more liberal with scale. What size, exactly, should a goblin be? In the earliest days of sword-and-sorcery wargaming, in the early '70s, when Gary Gygax was playing his fantasy version of Chainmail and there were simply no fantasy miniatures to be had, he used scale differences very creatively- a 25mm knight was his human, 1/72 was a dwarf, 15mm was a hobbit or a goblin, larger scales like 40, 54 or 90mm served as ogres and giants.
Let's see if the Caesar 1/72 goblins are any use to us 25/28mm wargamers.
The models come in a compact little cardboard box, with cheerfully silly artwork, and the slogan 'you could resist Goblins no longer!' emblazoned across the front. Let's see exactly how irresistible these little chaps are.
They are packed into a tiny little plastic bag, sprueless apart from a little tag of plastic hanging from each one, with decently sized integral oval bases.
For 28mm wargaming, the scale of these Caesar goblins is absolutely spot on to my eye. They look large enough to be 'proper' infantry rather than a swarming, ankle-high horde of vermin, and they won't be lost in empty space if placed on individual 20mm bases. Also, compared to just about all other goblins on the market at anything like this scale, these are a huge bargain at about £8.99 for 35. Historical 1/72 figures are usually a little cheaper for a few more figures though- so even these suffer from the 'fantasy tax' a little.
The plastic is less 'greasy' than some 1/72 toy soldiers, but the general bendiness won't be unfamiliar to anyone who's laid hands on an airfix figure. I would recommend the standard precautions when painting these- wash thoroughly with Fairy and warm water, optionally soak overnight in a vinegar solution for more of a 'key' to the surface (though I've never bothered). Start with a coat of PVA (thicker than you think- it'll shrink a great deal), paint with acrylics and end with a good coat of varnish. Painting should be nice and quick- these fellows are very simply attired in little loincloths and bare skin. Two colours plus brown and'or silver for weaponry should be sufficient. Detail is as good as it needs to be, and the figures do not lack character- though I slightly suspect the hand of CAD design here- limbs are a little stiff and proportions a little too consistent perhaps, but maybe I'm wrong. Colour varies quite a bit across the selection I received, from bright silver to dark grey, but the feel of the plastic seems consistent.
The glaring weakness for me is in the choice of weaponry. In the pack of 35 goblins, only four are armed with bows. eight or ten would have been nicer, and more useful for most fantasy gamers I would think, though I can't speak for RPG players. Eight of them have a spear/javelin, but the four who are armed with a sort of double handed stone axe could easily be converted to spears. Then we have another eight who are holding stones to throw, or cartoon spherical bombs, with a litte fuse coming out! All but useless, especially in those quantities. Four have a wooden club- perfectly fine. There is a single standard bearer- perfectly cromulent, plus easily convertable to another spearman if preferred. The remaining seven wield either one or two ornate daggers with exotic undulating blades, giving the set as a whole a rather discordant selection of weaponry spanning the stone age to the age of black powder, stopping off at the renaissance on the way. If the bomb-throwers, rock-chuckers and dagger-brandishers were replaced with more bows, clubs and spears, this kit would be superbly useful. Indeed, if the selection were more representative of the box artwork, I think it would be no bad thing at all.
I bought this box with the idea of perhaps knocking out a quick, cheap and dirty goblin army for Kings of War, but to be honest the bum-ache and wastage involved in getting my money's worth from that odd weapon selection and the inherent difficulties of the material have made me think twice. These will come in handy for dungeoncrawls and the like though- I keep threatening to run a spot of D&D or something similar, and this box should amply fulfill that purpose, even without paint.
Showing posts with label 1/72. Show all posts
Showing posts with label 1/72. Show all posts
Wednesday, 1 June 2016
Tuesday, 26 April 2016
FUBAR for WWII
I umpired a WWII platoon-level game this evening with two friends using the FUBAR one page ruleset from Craig Cartmell. What a superb little game it is- very simple, very intuitive and very clever, and more than adaptable enough to accommodate any house-ruling you might want to do. I did see that there is a specific WWII supplement for FUBAR, but I was content to bash my own slightly simpler version together for tonight. I can already see how I might add smoke rules and the like. The master stroke is the suppression system which simultaneously eliminates book-keeping or 'counter-clutter' and efficiently models the effects of pinning and morale. I heartily recommend checking them out.
We played with shiny-toy-soldier style Airfix figures and some other bits from Armourfast, Zvezda and the like- with improvised, toylike scenery to match,. These included a hastily rigged up couple of woods made from a chopped up old Christmas wreath, a doormat 'ploughed field' and roads made from cut-up mousemats from the poundshop. The classic old Airfix cottage, Inn and Church are now being sold by Dapol at a very reasonable price. You may recognise them from all sorts of classic wargaming titles from the '60s onwards.
We played with shiny-toy-soldier style Airfix figures and some other bits from Armourfast, Zvezda and the like- with improvised, toylike scenery to match,. These included a hastily rigged up couple of woods made from a chopped up old Christmas wreath, a doormat 'ploughed field' and roads made from cut-up mousemats from the poundshop. The classic old Airfix cottage, Inn and Church are now being sold by Dapol at a very reasonable price. You may recognise them from all sorts of classic wargaming titles from the '60s onwards.
we played an imaginary German invasion of the sleepy
Sussex village of Ample Parking.
Fritz has holed up in St. Mandy's, the bounder! Hope he
keeps his jackboots off the hassocks.
Plucky Brits rush to the rescue.
A Cromwell ruins the vicarage lawn, but it's for a good cause.
They don't like it up 'em, as a wise man once
observed.
All in defence of next year's carrot crop.
Just this PAK 40 to sort out and we can send the Nazi Sealion
back into the channel.
Sunday, 24 April 2016
FUBAR for WWII
In a couple of days I'll be giving my old-fashioned shiny Airfix WW2 lads a run out for a game of FUBAR, the one page ruleset produced by Craig Cartmell, of IHMN and Blood Eagle fame. There is a one-page supplement available specifically for WW2, as the core rules can be adapted to any platoon-level skirmish from WW2 into the far-future (even 40,000 years into the future I suspect), but I'm having a little tinker to try and make it as simple and quick as possible, and adapting it to my own figure collection.
The rules look simple, straightforward and fun, with a bare minimum of book keeping (none, really), and a very simple and intuitive morale/effectiveness/suppression system. I'm also rather interested in the 'generic sci-fi' variant- almost too many ideas for how best to use those!
It occurs to me that this may well be the first time I've played a points-free, 'unbalanced' game as a matter of choice. The two forces won't be hugely assymetrical- I'll be balancing a slight meteriel advantage on the German side with a higher experience rating on the British side- but nor will they be obsessively costed to a rigid points system. The spirit of the game will mean that this isn't a problem, and I'm wondering whether I will come to embrace the old-school aesthetic in this regard, and be more ready to dispense with points in other games too?
The rules look simple, straightforward and fun, with a bare minimum of book keeping (none, really), and a very simple and intuitive morale/effectiveness/suppression system. I'm also rather interested in the 'generic sci-fi' variant- almost too many ideas for how best to use those!
It occurs to me that this may well be the first time I've played a points-free, 'unbalanced' game as a matter of choice. The two forces won't be hugely assymetrical- I'll be balancing a slight meteriel advantage on the German side with a higher experience rating on the British side- but nor will they be obsessively costed to a rigid points system. The spirit of the game will mean that this isn't a problem, and I'm wondering whether I will come to embrace the old-school aesthetic in this regard, and be more ready to dispense with points in other games too?
Friday, 22 April 2016
Emhar Saxons
Yesterday I took delivery of a box of Emhar Saxons for playing Blood Eagle in 1/72 scale. They were about £8 for a box of 50, so they work out at 16 pence each. Once I've based them on a penny, that goes up to 17p!
Rather good box art
The two linked sprues that come in the box
A close-up view of the detail
Size comparison with an Airfix German, and an old Space Marine
Emhar have their own formula of plastic which they boast is easier to glue and paint than regular 1:72 stuff. That may be true, but it seemed very much like Airfix stuff in the hand- a little bit bendy with that familiar greasy surface, so I gave my test figure the treatment that Henry Hyde advises in his Wargaming Compendium- I washed him with washing-up liquid and painted him with a decent coat of PVA glue before painting as normal. As I'm going for the 'toy-soldier' look, I just gave him a bright and clean basecoat and a coat of Humbrol Glosscote. In the photos the varnish hasn't even begun to dry, so he looks even more shiny and gloopy than he will do.
Lovely figures- I shall probably get some of the Emhar Vikings as well soon.
Tuesday, 19 April 2016
Usborne Viking paper house and axonometric paper
Although work has been busy, I've had time to make one of the houses in the book I mentioned yesterday. It went together very easily and I think it looks the business. Forgive the anachronistic Airfix British Infantry- they're there to give an idea of scale. As you can see, the house is on the compact side, but not I think jarringly so. As it is designed to be glued directly to a provided illustrated layout card, I added a rectangle of grey millboard (the stuff that reinforces A4 refill pads at the back) to give it some strength and a couple of millimetres of extra height.
I also jotted down a few ideas for a simple modular castle, made from wood and either card or lasercut MDF for the battlements, partly inspired by this post on Bob Cordery's superb 'Wargaming Miscellany' blog, and partly by the one in 'Wargaming on a Budget' by Iain Dickie. The task of planning on paper was made considerably easier by the use of axonometric graph paper. An architect friend told me about this, and how it is used. It allows you to draw a floorplan (or whatever) as a square or rectangle, without worrying about perspective, but also depict height as well. You can download it to your own specifications at the excellent Incompetech website.
Monday, 18 April 2016
Usborne Viking Settlement and Blood Eagle
A few years ago I bought In Her Majesty's Name, and despite really enjoying it and even collecting and painting some miniatures with IHMN in mind, I still haven't got round to playing it. This past weekend I picked up the authors' newest book, Blood Eagle, based on the same 'engine' as IHMN, and am once again enthused- hopefully this time I'll actually get some games in!
As luck would have it, I also picked up another book in the last few days: an old but pristine copy of Usborne's 'Make this Viking Settlement' (still in print) for a few quid from a charity shop. This beautifully presented and produced book should allow me to make a small table's worth of Viking houses and whatnot in OO/HO scale, which should be a reasonable match for some 1/72 Vikings and Saxons from Emhar I've had my eye on for a while.
In the last year or so my tastes in wargaming have veered toward the simple, the toylike, the inexpensive and the 'old school', so this way of playing Blood Eagle should tick a few of those boxes!
As luck would have it, I also picked up another book in the last few days: an old but pristine copy of Usborne's 'Make this Viking Settlement' (still in print) for a few quid from a charity shop. This beautifully presented and produced book should allow me to make a small table's worth of Viking houses and whatnot in OO/HO scale, which should be a reasonable match for some 1/72 Vikings and Saxons from Emhar I've had my eye on for a while.
In the last year or so my tastes in wargaming have veered toward the simple, the toylike, the inexpensive and the 'old school', so this way of playing Blood Eagle should tick a few of those boxes!
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